Kirtle, girdle, cloak, wimple, bodice — medieval and Renaissance-inspired costumes come with a vocabulary all their own. This guide explains the most common medieval clothing names in plain English, while clearly separating historical garment terms from the modern costume labels used by today’s shops.
Common historical terms include the chemise or shift (a washable base layer), kirtle (a fitted dress or dress layer), gown or overgown (an outer dress), girdle (a belt), cloak (an outer wrap), and headwear such as a wimple, veil, or coif. Modern Renaissance fair costumes also use terms such as corset belt, waist cincher, hooded shawl, bell sleeves, and high-low skirt. These modern labels describe the look and construction of a costume but are not always historically exact.
Good to know: Most ready-to-wear medieval and Renaissance costumes blend historical inspiration with fantasy styling. They are designed for comfort, movement, and events rather than museum-level reconstruction, so some names used in modern costume shopping may differ from strict historical terminology.
See the terms on a real costume
Women's Medieval Dress with Lace-Up Waist Cincher
A flowing medieval-inspired dress paired with a separate brown waist cincher—an easy example of the difference between a dress layer and a modern corset belt.
Shop the Costume →
Dress and Underdress Terms
Chemise / Shift
A chemise, shift, or smock was a lightweight base garment worn next to the skin. It helped protect more expensive outer clothing from sweat and frequent washing. In modern costume listings, a white peasant blouse or underdress may imitate this layer even when it is not constructed as a historically accurate chemise.
Kirtle
A kirtle was a principal women’s dress layer in medieval and early Renaissance Europe. Depending on the period, it could be a fitted dress worn over a shift, a visible underdress beneath a gown, or later a term applied more specifically to the skirt portion of the outfit.
Modern costume example: Medieval Dress with Lace-Up Waist Cincher
Bodice
The bodice is the fitted upper portion of a dress. In historical clothing, the shape and construction changed considerably by region and century. Modern costume descriptions often use “lace-up bodice” for a decorative fitted top, even when it has no boning or internal structure.
Modern costume example: Renaissance Dress Costume with a Floral Lace-Up Bodice
Gown / Overgown
A gown was often the outer dress worn over a shift and kirtle. “Overgown” is a useful modern explanatory term for this outer layer, although historical names and construction varied by place and period. A shawl or wrap is not the same garment as an overgown.
Surcoat
A surcoat was an outer garment worn over another layer. The term can refer to both men’s and women’s clothing and is especially familiar from medieval dress. Modern fantasy costumes sometimes echo the long, open-sided or layered appearance of a surcoat without reproducing its historical construction.
Waist and Belt Terms
Girdle
In medieval and Renaissance clothing, a girdle was a belt worn at the waist or hips. It could be practical, decorative, or used to suspend a pouch, keys, or other small items. A historical girdle is not the same thing as a modern corset belt.
Corset Belt / Waist Cincher
A corset belt or waist cincher is a shorter, lace-up accessory worn over a dress at the natural waist. It creates a fitted fantasy silhouette without functioning like a full structured corset. This is one of the most common terms used in modern Renaissance fair and medieval-inspired costume listings.
Shop the modern costume layer: Renaissance Hooded Cloak with Corset Belt
Build the outer layer
Renaissance Hooded Cloak with Corset Belt
A hooded cloak and separate lace-up waist cincher for an instantly recognizable faire or fantasy silhouette. Dress not included.
Shop the Cloak Set →Cloaks, Mantles, and Shawls
Cloak
A cloak is an outer wrap worn over other clothing for warmth, travel, or protection. It may be hooded or unhooded and can range from shoulder length to full length. Hooded cloaks remain popular in modern faire costumes because they layer easily over dresses and create an instantly recognizable fantasy silhouette.
Mantle
“Mantle” is a related historical term for an outer covering worn over the shoulders. It should not always be treated as an exact synonym for every type of cloak, because its length, shape, and ceremonial use varied across periods and contexts.
Hooded Shawl
A hooded shawl is a modern retail description for a shorter draped layer with an attached hood. It is usually lighter and less symmetrical than a full cloak, making it an easy way to add texture and a hood without the weight or length of a cape.
Shop the look: Medieval Dress with Hooded Shawl
Sleeve and Skirt Styles
Bell Sleeves
Bell sleeves fit more closely near the upper arm and widen toward the wrist. Historical garments used many different sleeve constructions, including wide, funnel-shaped, hanging, and detachable sleeves. “Bell sleeve” is a convenient modern label rather than one universal medieval sleeve name.
High-Low Skirt
A high-low skirt is shorter in one area—usually the front—and longer in another. It is a modern costume and fashion construction that can suggest layered fantasy clothing while making movement easier and allowing boots or stockings to remain visible.
Ruffle Skirt
A ruffle skirt uses gathered or layered fabric to create volume and movement. In costume styling, ruffles are often used for peasant, tavern, pirate, witch, and woodland characters, but the phrase itself is a broad modern description rather than a precise medieval garment name.
Headwear and Accessory Terms
Wimple, Veil, and Coif
A wimple covered the neck and sides of the face and was often worn with a veil. A coif was a close-fitting cap worn by different groups of people in different periods. These terms refer to distinct forms of headwear, so they should not be used interchangeably with a modern floral crown or fantasy headpiece.
- Circlet: A narrow band worn around the head. Modern costume circlets are commonly jeweled and used for noble, elf, or fantasy characters.
- Floral crown: A wreath-style modern faire and fantasy accessory. It can suggest woodland, fairy, festival, or romantic styling but should not automatically be presented as historically accurate medieval headwear.
- Pointed hat: A modern costume symbol associated with witches and sorceresses rather than a general medieval women’s garment.
- Choker / celestial necklace: Modern jewelry labels frequently used in fantasy costume sets; celestial motifs are styling choices, not a standard category of medieval necklace.
- Arm cuffs: Decorative wrist or forearm accessories used in elf, warrior, and fantasy-forward costumes.
- Belt pouch: A pouch suspended from a belt or girdle. Modern costume versions are often decorative but reference the practical use of belts for carrying small items.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a kirtle and a gown?
A kirtle was commonly a principal fitted dress layer, while a gown was often an outer garment worn over the kirtle and shift. The exact meaning changed across centuries and regions, so the terms should be understood in context rather than as one fixed modern outfit formula.
What is the difference between a cloak and a shawl?
A cloak is generally a more complete outer wrap that fastens or closes around the body, while a shawl is a draped piece worn over the shoulders. “Hooded shawl” is mainly a modern costume description for a shorter draped layer with an attached hood.
Is a corset belt a medieval girdle?
No. A girdle was a belt, while a modern corset belt or waist cincher is a wide lace-up styling accessory. A corset belt can create a medieval-inspired silhouette, but it should not be described as the exact historical name for a girdle.
Did medieval women wear corsets?
Not in the modern sense usually meant by “corset.” Fitted and supportive garments evolved over time, and structured stays became more associated with later Renaissance and early modern dress. Modern costume shops often use “corset-style” to describe decorative lacing or a separate waist cincher.
Do I need to know these terms to buy a costume?
No. Focus on the product photos, included-piece list, size chart, and construction details. The glossary simply helps you compare styles and understand whether a listing describes a historical garment, a modern costume feature, or a fantasy accessory.
Choose the Garment Layer You Need
Use these four modern costume examples to compare a dress base, a fitted bodice, a cloak and a hooded shawl. They are costume interpretations, not historically exact reproductions.
Dress + Separate Waist Cincher
Choose this if you want a dress base with a removable lace-up waist layer. The dress and brown waist cincher are included.
Dress with a Lace-Up Bodice
Choose this to see a bodice as part of the dress. The 8-piece set also includes a shawl, necklace, belt and four belt accessories.
Hooded Cloak + Corset Belt
Choose this if you already have a base outfit and need an outer layer. Includes the cloak and waist cincher; the dress is not included.
Dress + Hooded Shawl
Choose this for a dress paired with a separate hooded shawl. The two-piece set includes the dress and shawl only.
Before choosing, compare the product's size chart, garment length and included-piece list. Add footwear and any unlisted accessories separately.
Find the layers that fit your character.
Browse Medieval & Renaissance CostumesPut the Terms into an Outfit
Start with our Renaissance fair beginner's guide for the event basics, then explore Renaissance fair costume ideas for women to choose a look. For a complete outfit plan covering layers, footwear, bags, and changing weather, use our guide to what to wear to a Renaissance fair. Deciding on an outer layer? Compare cloaks, robes and capes.
